In our quest to prove that there's more to the Canary Islands than purpose-built beach resorts, we took the guagua into Gran Canaria's mountainous interior. An independent parish since 1514, the astonishingly pretty town of Teror is one of the oldest urban centres on the island and declared a world heritage site in 1989.
Teror is known as el corazon verde de Gran Canaria (the green heart of Gran Canaria). Thanks to the considerable winter rainfall, the region has lush ravines, palm groves and an area of rare laurel forest. Above the town, the Caldera de Pina Santo (the holy pine crater) has been declared a protected landscape in recognition of their natural beauty.
Here's the view from the window on the bus:
Being so high up, Teror was a lot cooler than the 21°C daytime temperatures we'd been used to in Las Palmas and we were glad of our scarves and jackets.
On 8th September 1481 the Virgin Mary appeared to some shepherds in the branches of a pine tree in the forest on the outskirts of the town. The Virgin of the Pine became the island's patron saint and pilgrims still travel from near and far to pay her homage. The Basilica de Nuestra Senora del Pino, named in her honour, has been replaced twice, the current church built in 1767.
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The Treasure Room is, as you'd expect, stuffed with all manner of religious idolatry.
Not being in the least bit religious we had to giggle at this woman, she looked like she was trying to flog us a souvenir tea towel rather than lamenting Jesus's death.
You know how it is when you're really not to supposed to but you can't help laughing. The statue with the long blond hair looked like a reject from an Eighties hair metal band. Thank goodness there was no pilgrims around to be offended by our infantile behaviour.
UPDATED: I've just remembered this man-child cherub, there's something very disturbing about him, isn't there?
For hundreds of years, the faithful have embroidered the flamboyant cloaks that adorn the virgin (above), many of which are on display. I'd wear that red velvet dress in a heartbeat!
The 18th century octagonal clocktower is a replica of the 17th Century original.
The town has some stunning examples of Canarian architecture with traditional carved wooden balconies and red tile roofs, especially on the buildings found in the main street, Calle Real de la Plaza.
This pretty perfumery was doing a roaring trade.
Although this boutique selling handmade, one-off designs was more my thing....
I thought of
Sheila and her leather painting skillz when I spotted these jackets. I've been keeping everything crossed that Madonna plays Glastonbury this year, I'm hoping True Blue below is a sign.
Lord Jon was far more interested in this a vintage VW Type 3, on official council business, taking down Teror's famous Xmas lights.
Teresa de Bolivar, the wife of the South American revolutionary, Simon Bolivar, came from Teror and her family crest adorns the square named in her honour.
The town is renowned for its Chorizo de Teror, a locally produced spreadable garlic sausage.
Jon had some in his bocadillo, mine was made from local goats cheese with grilled pumpkin and beetroot.
Prized in the UK, it's odd to see Aeonium growing like weeds on the town's roofs!
After several hours of wandering, all that pure mountain air was starting to bite so we hopped back on the guagua and made our way back to Vegueta.
Fancy seeing Teror for yourself? The 229 leaves the San Telmo bus station in Las Palmas every thirty minutes. The journey costs €3 each way and takes 45 minutes.
Stay tuned for my final instalment.
Thanks for reading & see you soon!
